Mechanical Switches Explained: Why You're Probably Wrong

You’ve probably spent hundreds of dollars on a “custom” keyboard, only to realize it sounds like a bag of Legos falling down a staircase. Or perhaps you’re one of those people who believes that louder automatically means “better.” It doesn’t.

The soul of a mechanical keyboard is the switch. It is the electro-mechanical component that actually registers your input. And chances are, you chose the wrong one. Let’s correct that.

The Definition (Pay Attention)

A mechanical switch is a simple device: a stem moves inside a housing, eventually allowing two metal contacts to touch, completing a circuit. That’s it. It’s not magic. But the way that stem moves defines your entire existence as a computer user.

We categorize these movements into three types: Linear, Tactile, and Clicky.

1. Linear: The Path of Least Resistance

Linear switches are the simplest form of the mechanism. The stem travels straight down. No bumps. No clicks. Just smooth, uninterrupted motion until you hit the bottom.

The Physics: The resistance you feel comes entirely from the spring. The Vibe: Gamers love them because there is no friction to slow down their frantic mashing of the WASD keys. Typists who know what they are doing (and lube their switches) appreciate the “thock” sound of the stem hitting the bottom housing, rather than the artificial noise of the mechanism itself.

2. Tactile: The “Feel”

Tactile switches have a small bump on the legs of the stem. As you press down, the legs catch on the contact leaf, creating a moment of resistance. You must push past this bump to actuate the switch.

The Physics: It’s friction, applied intentionally. The Vibe: This is for people who need validation. You want the keyboard to tell you, “Yes, good job, you pressed the letter ‘A’.” It is excellent for touch typing because you don’t need to bottom out the key to know it worked.

3. Clicky: The Noise Complaint

Clicky switches are tactile switches that scream. They have the tactile bump, but they also incorporate a mechanism to produce a sharp “click” sound at the actuation point.

The Physics:

• The Click Jacket: (Found in Cherry MX Blues). A loose plastic sleeve around the stem “jumps” down to hit the housing. It sounds like a rattle. It is technically inferior.
• The Click Bar: (Found in Kailh Box Jade). A literal metal bar that the stem snaps past. It creates a crisp, metallic “CRACK.” It is objectively superior, if you must be loud.

The Vibe: Use these if you hate your coworkers, or if you live alone and need to feel like you are hacking the mainframe in a 90s movie.

The Misconceptions

Let me dispel some of the nonsense you’ve likely read on Reddit.

• “Red switches are for gaming, Blue are for typing.” False. “Red” just means linear (usually). You can type on linears. In fact, many of the fastest typists prefer linears because there is no bump to slow them down. “Blue” switches are for people who want to hear themselves work.

• “All clicky switches sound the same.” Refer to the section above. If you are using Cherry MX Blues, you are listening to plastic rattling. If you use a Click Bar switch, you are listening to a mechanism designed for sound. There is a difference. Learn it.

The Reality Check

Your choice of switch depends on your environment and your ego.

• Office: Linear or Tactile (Silent). If you bring clicky switches to an open office, you are the villain of the story.
• Gaming: Linear. Speed is king.
• Home/Private: Whatever you want. But if you value “thock” (the deep, resonant sound of quality plastic), you want Linears or Tactiles. Clicky switches mask the thock with high-pitch noise.